![]() ![]() systems being more than suitable to run the entire band, it is no longer required to run a Marshall stack at full volume and save the p.a. Nowadays, a fully equipped Marshall incorporates two or three channels, reverb, an effects loop, speaker-emulated direct outs, additional preamp stage gain, as well as a wide array of independent tones and volume controls for each available channel. As the years progressed, Marshall amplifiers came offered with a variety of additional features to suit the needs and requests of musicians through changing times. Oh, and running a 12AT7 in the PI wasn't too different from the 12AX7, but I DO like a 12AU7 in the PI spot.cleans up the amp a bit, yet still has plenty of gain.Throughout its history spanning nearly 40 years, Marshall has continued to produce amplifiers that have been successfully adopted and used by musicians worldwide. If I could get it EQ'd more like the Green Channel I think I'd be set.but the network of stuff going on in the Red Channel is beyond my comprehension/skill level at this point. ![]() It's like the "R" sound is more pronounced.a snarly thing in the midrange that is hard to dial out. The Red Channel is the odd one.it's better in that it's gain is more useable and the sweep of the gain knob is more even, but there is a distinct midrangey-ness to both Lead 1 and Lead 2 on the Red Channel now that I don't care for. If I could get more low end here it'd be fine, but for now I'll see if engaging the "Deep" switch will do it for me. I'll play it more to see how it grows on me, but it might be okay.if not, it's at least close. The "Crunch" side of the Green Channel is alright, but seems to have more midrange now and much leaner bass, maybe too lean. It's nearly perfect, ESPECIALLY through a straight 4x12 with Heritage Greenbacks. I like the "Clean" side on the Green Channel A LOT better now. 0047uf cap as that was nice when I tried it). 0022uf (no idea what that does where it is), removed R20 and jumpered (again, not exactly sure what that does), and removed C12 (bright cap across VR3.was a 470pf, might put in a. ![]() I did all that to get that first gain stage closer to a JCM 800 and/or 1959 lead schematic.įront Board: I installed a 1M to ground on the wiper for VR3 (Red Channel gain knob), lowered C10 to. 68uf Sozo and lowered the same stage's Ra (R13) from 220k to 100k while raising Rk (R14) from 1k8 to 2k7. Main Board: Removed C9 entirely (100pf from the first gain stage plate to the cathode) and replaced C12 (the first gain stage Ck, a 4uf electrolytic) with a. ![]()
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